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Renee Kelly's hosts great-grandson of 'king of chefs'

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Written by Jessica Marshall   
Wednesday, 18 February 2009 01:00

escoffierFrench chef Auguste Escoffier, 1846-1935, established organizational standards and improved working conditions in the kitchen, created techniques and recipes by which most chefs have been trained, and helped invent the concept of fine dining in hotels.
His great-grandson, Michel Escoffier, has made it his life’s work to keep his family history alive and promote culinary education.
He will visit the Kansas City area today through Sunday, attending events to raise money for the Les Amis d’Escoffier Society Foundation, which provides scholarships and advanced workshops for culinary professionals.
Renée Kelly’s at Caenen Castle, 12401 Johnson Drive, will host a champagne and caviar reception for Michel at 6 p.m. Friday, followed by a seven-course dinner paired with wine at 7 p.m.


Executive Chef Renée Kelly first met Michel three years ago on a culinary cruise sponsored by the American Institute of Wine and Food tour. She invited him to Kansas City to help promote the culinary industry and educate chefs, and prospective chefs, about the Escoffier Foundation’s work and the rich history of Auguste Escoffier, the “father of modern cooking.”
escoffier“It’s actually a great honor for him to come to Kansas City. He represents his great-grandfather, Auguste Escoffier, who is a huge, monumental player in the culinary world,” Kelly said. “Auguste Escoffier started the kitchen brigade system, where we get the executive chef, the sous chef and so on, and he also created some inventions like the plate topper, which we definitely use today.
“The Escoffier name needs to remain alive and well-known. Michel is helping to promote and keep alive the history of the culinary world and where it all began. Auguste was known as the ‘king of chefs and chef of kings,’” Kelly said.
“It means a lot for (Michel) to take time out of his schedule to come and talk about the Escoffier Foundation and what they have to offer the culinary world and culinary entrepreneurship. He also helps give credibility to the Les Amis d’Escoffier and its disciples.”
Kelly developed her menu for Friday based on Auguste Escoffier recipes. She said most fine dining chefs have studied Escoffier’s techniques and philosophies from the culinary bible “Le Guide Culinaire,” published in 1903.
Kelly said the evening will be “steeped in culinary history” and offer traditional French dishes featuring duck, frog legs, ratatouille, seafood bouché and Peach Melba, all paired with a special wine.
“It’ll be a nice, laid back, classic European-style dinner in a casual atmosphere where people can speak with Michel one-on-one and ask him questions about his great-grandfather and what impact it’s had on his life,” Kelly said. “We are asking for an $80 donation for the meal and the wine, but I am donating most of the food, beverage and service, so a good portion of (the donations) will go directly to the Escoffier foundation.”
Michel, who serves as vice president of the foundation, has published two books, “Tresors Culinaires de la France” and “Memories of My Life,” the latter of which will be available for purchase and signing Friday at Renée Kelly’s.
“The book focuses on the history of Escoffier and what his life is all about,” Kelly said. “It has some handwritten recipes that he created for the Ritz and the Savoy in London. It talks about his life and hard times, and the struggle he came through to be a chef and how he came in contact with César Ritz and brought the restaurant to the hotel, as we know it now, as opposed to just a place to stay overnight.”
Michel also will attend a Demo & Dinner at 6 p.m. Thursday at Art Institutes International-Kansas City, 8208 Melrose Drive, Lenexa. The institutes demo will feature the preparation of classic Escoffier recipes such as Peach Melba and soufflés.
The event is hosted by the Les Amis d’Escoffier Heart of America Chapter. For tickets, contact www.heartofamericadames.org.
Other visits by Michel are:
Today – 5 p.m. cocktail reception at Capital Grill and 7:30 p.m. three-course dinner at Café Provence
Thursday – 1 p.m., World War I Museum
Friday – 9 a.m. breakfast at Andres and book signing, noon speaking engagement at Second Presbyterian Church with La Causerie, and 1 p.m. lunch at Aixois.
Saturday – 9 a.m. breakfast and 7:30 p.m. cocktails and light dinner at Room 39.
Sunday – 10 a.m. brunch at Blue Bird Bistro and 7 p.m. dinner at Le Fou Frog with Colleen Cassidy.
Tickets and reservations are required for each event and may be purchased by contacting the individual restaurant hosting the event.

FAST FACTS

Renée Kelly’s dinner menu for Friday, Feb. 20 (wine pairings in italic)
Nicolas Feuillate Brut
Duck Rillettes on baguette
Paté de Campagne
Sautéed frog’s legs with garlic, white wine, parsley and butter
Domaine Besson Givry ‘Le Haut Columbier’
Ratatouille tartlet with fresh chevre and basil chiffonade
Verget Du Sud Chardonnay
Seafood bouché with saffron cream
Sauvion Pouilly-Fume
Veal milanese with candied prosciutto
Baron De Rothschild Reserve Special Rouge Medoc
Seared duck with green peppercorn sauce
Assiette fromage with grape chutney and toasted almonds
Peach Melba
For reservations, call 631-4100 or visit www.reneekellys.com.

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